University Surf Research

1.

Where are you studying, what year and what is your thesis on?

AUT - Auckland's North Shore.

I am in my final year at university studying towards a Master of Sports and Exercise.

My thesis is on Elite Surfing: Physiological demands of competition and upper-body anaerobic power and aerobic fitness profiling.

2.

How did you come up with the idea?

My original idea was to look at fitness training for elite surfers; investigating water based and gym based training, but we realized that surfing research was in its infancy, so some fundamental research into competitive surfing was needed before looking at training techniques. With my supervisor at Uni we came up with what I thought were important fitness aspects of surfing - This was power to catch the waves (Anaerobic power) and endurance (Aerobic fitness) to last long surfing durations.

After we found out how to test for these fitness aspects, I wanted to investigate and back these up with evidence - so using a heart hate monitor to determine what energy systems are being used and the durations they are used for, as well as timing the activities (wave riding, stationary, paddling). In addition to this idea, we came up with the idea of using GPS monitors to track the surfer's speeds, durations and distances traveled too. That is where the idea of performing Time Motion Analysis at surfing events originated (Physiological demands of competition).

3.

What results were you expecting leading into the Export Gold Super 16?

I was expecting to see some high heart rates around the 190 beats per minute and speeds of around 18-25 km/h. I had no idea how far the surfers would travel but I presumed it would be around 800 meters - 1km.

4.

Early days but analysing the data now what are the biggest changes to your expectations prior to the event?

The speeds and distances traveled were fascinating.

A top speed of 44.1 km/h was hit on the first day. I was skeptical at first at the speed traveled. But after analyzing more data, speeds of 30-32km/h came through, which is incredible giving the conditions they were surfing in.

The distances traveled were incredible. Distances of up to almost 2.5km where covered by the surfers in the water over the 20 minute heats which is phenomenal. This data really gives a good perspective of what really goes on when surfing and how fit you need to be.

5.

Comparing the data to other sports, how do some of the stats stack up in terms of heart rates and energy consumption?

The results are extremely high. I figured they would be, being a surfer myself I knew I was pushing the body hard every time I went out, but did not realize just how hard.

A heart rate of 190 beats per minute is extremely high - like a 100 meter sprint. With this being hit around 5-10 times over 1 hour of surfing, the body has to be able to recover quickly, therefore the fitness has to be high - similar to that of a soccer player. But because a surfer is almost continually paddling, it is actually more consistent than soccer.

The energy consumption and heart rates are comparable to that of middle and long distance runners as well as Nordic skiers. Although the surfer is not in a race like an endurance runner, a surfer has to battle against all sorts of variables such as currents, rips, the resistance of the water, paddling for the wave and to waves and of course duck driving though the waves.

6.

When do you hope to have your thesis concluded and what needs to happen between now and then?

The thesis will be completed by March/April next year 2011.

Between now and then I have to analysis all of the heart rates, GPS and video recorded data from the super 16 at Piha. In addition I will need to conduct some more testing using the heart rate monitors and GPS units at the next competition. After this I need to implement the fitness tests on the top surfers - so the power test and the aerobic fitness test. Analysis of all the data and in conjunction with writing a big literature review will keep me busy!

7.

If any surfers out there are keen to partake in your experiments what do they need to do?

If any one is keen to partake or would like some information on the study they can contact me via email - yph9838@aut.ac.nz

University Surf Research
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